Tattoo Machine Tuning
Machine tuning is hands down the most important thing you will need to know about machines themselves. I can't tell you how many times I have heard someone say, "I don't need to know how to tune a machine. I just use it out of the box and its fine." This kills me. If you are going to operate any kind of tool you need to know how to do so properly. The theory behind tuning your machine is to get the machine running as smooth as possible. The less vibration the easier operation will be. If you want a smooth straight line then the machine has to be in tune. When tuning a machine, many factors come into play. Your grommet on the armature nipple needs to be in good shape and your o ring on the front spring also needs to be in good condition. Another thing not everyone looks at is the quality of the contact screw. If it's dirty or has carbon build-up it will not get a nice smooth connection.

Contact screws can be made from brass, steel, copper, and silver. Copper is fair, stainless and brass will work, but in my personal opinion silver is the better choice. Brass and steel are a very hard metal and they also spark a little. Over time they will burn a hole all the way through the tip of a front spring. If the machine is out of tune it will burn a hole much faster. Silver is a softer metal so front springs will last a very long time. Silver is also less incline to spark so you have less problems with plastic machine covers. The only thing I don't like about silver and brass is that they tarnish. Because silver is a very soft metal you have to be careful not to tighten you're set screw to hard, it can eat the threads right off of the contact screw.
You also want to take a look at the hole in the frame that your front binding post screws into. Almost all machines have a longer hole than needed. The reason for this is more adjustment. With the machine sitting on its yoke, if you barely loosen the screw you can move the entire front binding post assembly up or down to adjust for lining or shading. Moving the front binding post upward is better for color and shading, down is better for lining, and the center is universal. I just run the binding post in the center. Either way you set this option, the tip of your contact screw should be dead center in line with the hole for your tube vice. The best way to check the alignment is to hold the machine like a pistol that you're about to fire. Hold the machine so that you can see the contact screw tip closer to you. While holding the machine at this angle, move your head a little to one side to see if the machine is level. If not pivot the "contact screw" up or down till it is level. You can check to see if the armature bar is also in the center position by doing the same thing only looking in the tube hole with the armature bar away from you. The more in line the armature bar and the tip of the contact screw are to the center of the machine then the less resistance you have while the needle bar is in motion. This will make for a steadier stroke.
I have already talked a little about the stroke but what exactly is it? The stroke of your machine is the distance traveled by your armature bar while in motion. The duty cycle of the machine is the length of time that the front spring stays in contact with the contact screw. The duty cycle is measured in percentages. If your duty cycle is 50% then the time the front spring touches the contact screw and time it does not touch the contact screw while open is the same. If the duty cycle of the machine is 40% then the front spring is in contact with the contact screw 40% of the time and away from the contact screw 60% of the time. Studies have shown that optimum duty cycle is around 55%. This can be measured by using an electronic multimeter that has a duty cycle setting on it. You attach one lead to the clip cord post in the spring saddle and the other lead to the contact screw. Some newer power supplies come equipped with a duty cycle reader. The stroke strength is hand measured by taking your thumb while the machine is off and pressing on the armature bar nipple. You want to push the armature bar all the way to the coils. If you apply pressure to the front spring then it will bend and you will not get an accurate measurement. The old way of machine tuning is a little less technical. If you've been around tattooing you may have hear of the old nickel and dime trick. A nickel is about two millimeters thick and a dime is about one and a half millimeters thick. The nickel and dime trick means that if you can just fit a nickel in that space then you're good for lining, and a dime if good for shading. This is not always the case.

Thickness should be checked when spring is depressed
The idea is that if your lining, then you need to be a little deeper so you're black is darker, while shading your working the skin a little more so you don't want as much depth to avoid scarring. Definitely sounds like a good idea, but all this does it set the stroke a little different and it does not smooth out the action of the machine. Like a few close held ideas about tattooing, this was cool for the sixties but not by today's standards. Most tattoo artist use two machines in the course of one tattoo. You set one machine up for shading and one for lining. Doing this means you don't have to switch needles and tubes. You just use one for each. Since this is a guide for beginners, most apprentices can only afford one machine at first (speaking as a veteran artist I find it's easier to do this anyway) you can also set one machine up universally to do both. I set a few machines up to do different things and different styles but any artist can tell you they have one machine that they like more than any other.
To set a machine up for lining you want to adjust the front binding post all the way down, as far from the top of the frame arm as possible. Make sure to pivot the contact screw tip to the dead center of the tube vice; unless you choose to use a cutback. For a liner, if the machine is sitting on the yoke and you are looking at the frame side, the contact screw will be at about six o'clock, where a shader will be about four o'clock. Some machines are made specifically to accommodate these angles, and some are universal. If your front spring isn't touching the contact screw just right then loosen it and move it up till it fully touches the screw tip. To properly tune your machine you need to put a grommet on the armature nipple. Black is the best color because you can see it best as it moves. Barely loosen your set screw. Make sure it's still tight enough so that you have to use a little bit of pressure to turn the contact screw.
If it's too loose then when you turn on the machine the contact screw will unscrew its self and you'll have to start over every time you let go of it. Now, hold the machine sideways so your looking at the coils and the armature bar is standing straight up and down. You want your power supply to be about three volts and apply more as needed. Turn on the machine. If it doesn't move then make sure you contact screw is touching the front spring. If it doesn't move then turn up your power supply slowly till it starts. If it still doesn't move then check your machine assembly, something is wrong. If you hold the machine so you can clearly see the grommet moving you may notice and oscillation in the movement. This means that you machine will be running but you will be able to see another pattern of movement. The movement is comparable to watching a bike tire move. Even though it's moving forward it looks like its going back and forth. This part is hard to explain but if you watch the grommet and slowly turn the contact screw you will see what I'm talking about.
That oscillation means your machine is out of tune. It's kind of like tuning a guitar for those of you that play; you have to remove the vibration. You have to adjust the contact screw until even though the machine is running you have to get this secondary movement to stop completely, which is almost impossible to do using the contact screw. You will have to get as close as you can and fine tune the machine using very slight adjustments with the power supply. You're not done yet. The next thing you do is barley touch your thumb nails to the armature nipple. You touch the part that sticks up while the grommet is on it and running. This is to test the stroke to see if it's hitting hard enough. Barely come into contact with the grommet, just enough to feel it hit you but without slowing it down. You want the stroke to feel smooth and just strong enough to not slow down the needle. It does not need to be a chainsaw. The softer you can get it to run without slowing the better your tattoo will be. If the stroke is too weak then turn up the power supply slowly till it feels just right. If it is to hard then turn it down. After you adjust the power supply then you need to tune using the contact screw again.
It takes both the power supply strength and the contact screw adjustment to tune your machine. They both have to work together. Your power supply controls the strength of your stroke or "power" while the contact screw controls the smoothness of the machine. Once you are close to tuning your machine with the contact screw you can use your power supply to gently and slowly fine tune the machine to remove all secondary motion. It will take some time to get this just right, so you want to practice un-tuning your machine and putting it back in tune. Once you put a needle and tube along with the rubber bands on the machine you will have to adjust the contact screw just a little. Once you're happy with the adjustment then gently tighten your set screw to hold the setting. Remember not to tighten it too tight because you may eat the threads off of the contact screw. Now you have a liner. Once set, every time you pick the machine up and load it with a needle and tube it will be ready to go till you move the adjustment or drop the machine. Try not to drop it; you can bend the upper frame arm really easy.
To set up a shadier repeat the exact same process only adjust the front binding post all the way to the top of the frame arm or four o'clock. If you want a universal machine the set it to the center or five o'clock. That's it; you now know how to tune a machine. Another helpful tip that I know I mentioned once before is to apply two pieces of masking tape to the underside of your armature bar. Stick them on and trim them to fit with a razor making sure not to cut your o ring. This quiets your machine, smoothes out the action even more, and reduces long term wear and tear on your armature bar and coils heads. Your machine will sound better which will please you and your clients as well as make your parts last longer. Make sure to change the tape about every week if you use it on a regular basis.
The Best Tattoo Machines
As a professional tattoo artist, choosing the right tattoo machine is crucial to your success. There are a few key factors to consider when selecting a machine that is best suited for your style and needs.
Firstly, determine whether you prefer a rotary or coil tattoo machine. Rotary machines are more versatile, lightweight and quieter, while coil machines are more powerful and suitable for larger tattoos.
Secondly, consider the stroke length of the machine. Shorter strokes are ideal for shading and coloring, while longer strokes are best for lining.
Another important factor is the power supply. Make sure the machine is compatible with your power supply and voltage requirements.
Lastly, take into account the ergonomics of the machine. It should be comfortable to hold and operate for long periods of time without causing strain or discomfort.
Ultimately, the best tattoo machine for you will depend on your personal preferences and the type of tattoos you specialize in. It's important to invest in a high-quality machine that you can rely on to produce exceptional results for your clients.
Continue reading here: Other Tattoo Supplies
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